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Gaurav Gupta steals the show at Paris Fashion Week 2023

Roberta Herrerra

27 Jan 2023

Gaurav Gupta creates sculpture-like garments inspired by infinity for his Paris Haute Couture debut

Indian designer Gaurav Gupta's first show on the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar, on its fourth and final day, was imbued with his lavish sculpture-like designs that combine his country's ancestral techniques with his futuristic vision of fashion. An elaborate display of glamour worthy of the most prestigious red carpets.

An industrial style room at the Palais de Tokyo, Europe's largest contemporary art centre, welcomed 280 guests on Thursday to view 35 looks from his stunning Spring/Summer 2023 collection entitled "Shunya", which means zero in Sanskrit. Zero was discovered in India centuries ago, and for Gupta, this discovery "expanded our vision of time, space, science and everything".

"The whole universe opened up in that moment. I'm discovering subliminal inspiration about zero and infinity and that's what I'm representing in different ways throughout this collection," Gupta told after the show. 

The first part of his show was devoted to short and long silver dresses that danced in the wind, as if "frozen in time", as the designer put it himself. The models seemed to command the giant waves of organza that rose stiffly above their heads and enveloped their figures in billowing shapes and crystal beads, revealing various parts of their bodies. A dramatic silver cape with large satin pleats and a long train made its way down the catwalk to accompany a long gown with a thigh-high slit and V-neckline. 

Another part of the show was marked by electric blue in "futuristic" sculptural pieces, as Gupta described them, in chiffon, satin and organza. There were cut-out dresses over shimmering tights, skirts with trains that trailed nonchalantly across the floor and sleek, midriff-baring tops. 

Then came the black 'naked dresses' that played with transparencies and embroidery emulating lava and waves that expertly covered up private areas. One of the looks was covered with 'kundalini' snake embroidery, the Sanskrit word for serpent.....

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